Plumbing
How to fix a dripping tap
Most drips are a perished washer on a traditional tap or a worn ceramic disc cartridge on a quarter-turn or mixer tap. The repair differs, so identify which you have first.
What you'll need
- •Adjustable spanner and tap spanner
- •Flat and cross screwdrivers
- •Replacement washers or cartridge
- •Silicone grease, cloth, plug for the basin
Step by step
1Isolate the water
Turn off the isolating valve under the basin with a flat screwdriver, or shut the stopcock. Open the tap fully to drain it and confirm the water is off. Put the plug in so nothing drops down the waste.
2Identify the tap
A tap that turns several times before shutting off is a traditional rubber-washer tap. One that shuts in a quarter turn uses a ceramic disc cartridge.
3Strip the head
Prise off the hot/cold index cap, undo the retaining screw and lift the handle. Undo the headgear nut with a spanner, holding the tap body steady so you don't twist the pipework below.
4Replace the washer or cartridge
On a traditional tap, unscrew or prise off the washer at the base of the headgear and fit a like-for-like replacement. On a ceramic tap, replace the whole cartridge, matching the size and handedness.
5Check the seat
If a new washer still drips, the brass seat inside the body is likely scored. A reseating tool or a seat-and-washer set will fix it without changing the tap.
6Reassemble and test
Grease the threads and O-rings lightly, reassemble hand-tight then nip up, turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks around the headgear and below the basin.
Common mistakes
- •Overtightening the headgear — it crushes the new washer and the drip returns quickly.
- •Twisting the tap body and cracking the flexible tails underneath.
- •Not draining the tap before stripping it.
When to get a second opinion
If the isolating valve won't shut off or the tails are weeping, stop and get help before you're dealing with a flood.
Ask an experienced tradesperson